Blog Archive

Sep 26, 2010

Malawi: The Warm Heart Of Africa September 2010

(NOTE: It's confusing, but when you get to the bottom of this page there is a tag saying either older or newer posts, click this and you will be taken to the rest of my posts)  

The lake of stars, the third largest lake in Africa, sandy beaches, endemic chichlid species and a beautiful, beautiful place to visit.

Map of Malawi

We (that is Brinsley and I) arrived first in Lilongwe where we stayed at Mabuya camp which was a dump and a place that we would recommend no one else to go. So we left quickly! We managed to catch the slowest matatu in all of Africa to Monkey Bay changing at Mangochi and taking the longest possible route ... but the wait was worth it.

First, introducing Brinsley whom I set off with from Zambia, Anders who joined us for the first leg and Chrissie who joined us for the second leg, the others are randoms whom we will remember fondly and who made our trip memorable ...

                                              Brinsley                                                Anders

                                               Chrissie                                                    ... and me
 
Cape Maclear, staying at Mufasa (absolutely brilliant) ... thanks Catherine ...




Monkey Bay, staying at Mufasa (not completely built yet but when it is it will be a gem)

 Getting the matullah to Monkey Bay

 The view from Mufasa, Monkey Bay

The Ilala Ferry, which we took from Monkey Bay to Likoma Island and then a week later from Likoma Island to Nkhata Bay


 The chaos of the Ilala was more than I have ever seen before ... I'm writing a story on it so watch this space!


 Catching up with diary writing as we watched the lake go by

 Beers at sundowners, served by the wonderful Mr. Smiles

 From beautiful blue skies to waking in the morning to a cool wind

 Anders and Brinsley jumping from the top deck of the Ilala into the cool waters below

 The Ilala, only renewed once in 100 years!


Likoma Island, staying at Mango Drift (my favourite place on the entire trip!)


 Mango Drift and Basil (I'm working on a poem)

I slept on the beach while Brinsley had a banda, the view and the peace was wonderful
 Sunsets every night were worth watching and look carefully you can see a smoke tower of lake flies

 Brinsley struggled to master this paddle craft so I had to show him how it was done!!

 We climbed the hill one evening to watch the sunset and were regaled with swooping kites

 Mango Drift's bay


The Cathedral on Likoma Island
 Taking the Dhow to Chizumulu Island after waking at 4am to walk an hour to catch it at 5am and arrive at Chizumulu at about 7am

 Sunrise as we sailed to Chizumulu, notice Anders and Brinsley fast asleep on the floor of the dhow

This was before they fell asleep .... we walked for a hard 45mins leaving camp at 4.30am

Chizumulu Island, staying at Nick's Place (run by eccentric English Nick!)





 Nkhata Bay, staying at Mayoka Village, a lovely place if you don't arrive on party night and want to sleep!

  The view over the bay



 Dinner at H&M with the Irish boys and Max and Margarite and Brinsley and the Chief

 Luwawa Forest, camping on the ground at Luwawa Forest Lodge  

 Getting to the lodge on an empty logging truck and putting the kettle on right away!

 partying with the crazy Scotsman after an hour in the sauna where we reached 73'C

Waking up from our snuggly ground sleeping to a fire and tea in bed

 I had endless teasing about snowball ....but I wouldn't be without him

 On one of our hikes and Brinsley cutting his hair in the bush

 View away from the dam at the lodge

And the arty photos from the trip...

 The Likoma Islanders make rope from baobab bark and its the job of the childeren to float the bark to the villages




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